The bar at Sushidelic, the new restaurant created by artist Sebastian Masuda in New York’s Soho.
As you sit at the bar, under the enormous revolving sculptures of cats, a conveyor belt glides by with sparkly art constructions: a handbag, an outstretched hand holding a card, a multicolored teddy bear, a shiny red stiletto. Finally, a plate bearing one small macaron with tuna appears, the first course of two omakase set menus offered. This is the setting of Sushidelic from Japanese multi-discipline artist Sebastian Masuda, known as the godather of kawaii—the cute/lovable trend in Japanese culture. What he’s aiming for here is a “sushi experience for the new generation, a journey of delicious and adorable flavors, a vibrant and colorful world, an exhilarating and mind-bending adventure.” It’s certainly not like anything else in New York, where it opened in Soho on Wednesday.
Ape-Maki rolls, four of which comprise one course in Sushidelic’s two omakase menus.
This isn’t the first time that Masuda’s art has made an appearance in New York where he now lives: his nine foot tall Hello Kitty time capsule was installed on Dag Hammerskjold Plaza in 2015. This time, though, his artistic visions are being realized in concert with renowned chefs: Hiroki Abe, previously with the esteemed EN Japanese Brasserie in the West Village and Eleven Madison Park; Kyle G. Pulchir, also a veteran of Eleven Madison Park and Restaurant Daniel and Reina Tange, a specialist in visually appealing dishes whose experience ranges from her family’s inn and restaurant on the Japanese island of Hachijojima to the kitchen of the Bulgari Hotel in Tokyo’s Ginza. The result is that the sushi and other Japanese and vegetable dishes aren’t relying on their looks alone, even if your fellow, often Instagram influencer, diners are photographing every one of them under portable LED lights. There really are delicious flavors under all of that whimsy.
The first course macaron with sushi rice and tuna.
One concept that’s still being worked out, though, is the delivery system by conveyor belt. Apparently, the idea was that one’s courses would be delivered with a card with that diner’s name but too many people apparently grabbed dishes that weren’t meant for them. So for the moment, apart from that lone macaron, all other courses are delivered by an extremely helpful, amusingly costumed server. Following the macaron, which the server recommends to enhance with one of a colorful array of six sauces including yuzu and siracha mayo, the courses arrive quickly. Three slices of Hamachi represent that day’s sashimi salad, then the Ape-Maki, a selection of four reimagined rolls including an inside out California roll that presents avocado on the inside with streams of crabmeat draping the outside, salmon with salmon roe and eel and spicy tuna over crispy rice. Shrimp Kakiage Tempura, a classic, crispy tempura follows accompanied by matcha and yuzu salt. (The head and tail are still connected, the server warns, so bite carefully.)
Courses can be adapted for vegan diners.
The last savory course on the “Pure Imagination”menu is the Chirashi Parfait, a spin on an ice cream parfait served in a sundae dish including various selections of sashimi and marinated vegetables over pink sushi rice with a mini syringe containing soy sauce. (On the other omakase menu “Roll With It” a special Ape-Maki including a Wagyu roll, medium fatty toro and spicy scallop comprises this course instead.) The day’s desserts feature three choices including ice cream and yogurt with strawberries, a slice of yuzu and chocolate ganache with mochi underneath meant to resemble sushi and sake cheesecake, a particular hit with the photographing influencers at the other end of the bar.
Sebastian Masuda on the bar at Sushidelic.
There are several tables apart from the conveyor belt bar and all were filled on opening night. On their way out, guests asked to pose with the costumed servers who were extremely willing to oblige. And confirming Masuda’s goals, they were all smiling as they left.