I was an obsessive Frank Sinatra fan before I became an obsessive whiskey fan, so what little I knew of Green River bourbon came from Ol’ Blue Eyes’ monologue on his classic 1966 live album, Sinatra At The Sands: “I don’t know if you ever heard of Green River, but it takes the paint off your deck if you’ve got a boat,” he exclaims, to peals of laughter from the audience. “59 cents a gallon, baby!” By that time, Green River was indeed little more than a punchline, and within a few years would be phased out of the market entirely, according to whiskey historian Michael Veach’s short online history of the brand. But from its founding in the 1880s until Prohibition, it was a popular, heavily promoted, award-winning sour mash, known for the quality of its ingredients and the dubious slogan, “The Whiskey Without A Headache.” (It was later changed to “The Whiskey Without Regrets,” to avoid liability for misleading medical claims.)
The good times ended for Green River in 1918, when a warehouse fire destroyed most of its aging stocks, followed in short order by Prohibition. The trademark was revived after Repeal, and the brand bounced between a couple of different distilleries. At some point it became a bottom-shelf blended whiskey before it was put out of its misery in the late ‘60s, as vodka ascended and amber spirits in general declined.
You don’t have to drink Green River on what looks to be an enormous blue tablecloth (picnic … [+]
Apart from Sinatra’s immortalized wisecrack, Green River largely faded from memory over the next several decades. But the brand has been reborn — at the distillery in Owensboro, Kentucky where it was originally made, no less. Partnering with the celebrated Bardstown Bourbon Company, the first new Green River whiskey in more than half a century was released in 2022. Now, they’re following up that high-rye expression with a wheated bourbon that’s rolling out this month.
Is either bourbon close to the Green River that was made pre-Prohibition? I haven’t seen any claims made to that effect, so most likely not. But the flagship expression is a solid sipper and mixer at a decent price, and Green River Wheated Bourbon follows suit. With a $34.99 suggested retail price, it’s not one of those unicorn-type whiskeys that collectors and flippers will be seeking out, but it’s an excellent everyday, utilitarian pour. At 90 proof, it’s gentle enough to sip but doesn’t get lost in a cocktail. The high percentage of wheat in the mashbill (21%, with 70% corn and 9% malted barley) makes for a soft, buttery mouthfeel, with lots of creamy vanilla and toffee, plus hints of my favorite breakfast cereal, Golden Crisp (known in my childhood as Super Sugar Crisp). A clean, gentle finish encourages repeat sipping, and perhaps a refill or two once the glass has been drained.
This is not a life-changing whiskey. But then again, it’s not supposed to be. It tastes good, it won’t break the bank, and you don’t have to hoard it — Green River and Bardstown seem intent on making enough for it to be readily available. I’d like to think that even Sinatra himself would change his tune about the stuff, were he to give it a chance.