The founder of Beecher’s spills the beans on what makes the company’s signature dish extra special. Fair warning: Reading the gooey details is likely to make you very hungry.
Beecher’s Mac-and-Cheese is a best seller at its store in Pike Place Market, with a frozen version … [+]
It all starts with the cheese
Kurt Beecher Dammeier’s lofty goal in launching Beecher’s in November 2003 was to convince consumers eating handcrafted cheese shouldn’t be reserved for special occasions. “We wanted to take artisanal-style cheese and make it an every day cheese,” he explained in a recent phone interview.
The mission began when Dammeier leased a prime spot at Seattle’s Pike Place Market. “We did it a little ass backwards,” he said. “We had the space and then we tried to learn how to make cheese. It was more challenging than expected, so we hired a cheesemaker and then tried to find a local source for milk. That was way harder than we thought it would be.”
Finally, the hard work paid off, with fans often lining up for the now-famous grilled cheese and mac-and-cheese served at its spot in Seattle, as well as its location in Manhattan’s Flatiron neighborhood.
Those gooey creations became the irresistible introduction to the Flagship cheese, a cheddar with Gruyère overtones. Made in the Swiss tradition, it has a sweet, slightly nutty flavor with a creamy finish. It was a startlingly novel product when it made its debut and now has quite a few wannabe products going for a similar profile.
While the Flagship is aged a minimum of 14 months, it often is aged longer, which helps develops its complex flavor, a complexity showcased in the mac-and-cheese.
Now what about that mac?
Dammeier’s entrepreneurial fire was fueled by the success of Beecher’s, where the cheese making process is on display for the hordes of tourists visiting Pike Place Market. Soon, the parent company — known as Sugar Mountain — expanded to include the popular Pasta & Co. “This iconic place had a four cheese mac-and-cheese in the frozen foods section. We riffed off that recipe,” he said.
Something like 20-plus versions later and the culinary team had a winner, one that’s gone on to garner awards and adoration from discerning palates.
“It’s really a very simple recipe that’s equal parts really good cheese and really good pasta,” he said.
The subtle seasonings are what help push the dish into the crave-worthy category and Dammeier generously credits his neighbors at Pike Place Market for ongoing inspiration. “There are few places like Market Spice. It really hasn’t changed since it opened.”
And those key spices that build the Beecher’s mac-and-cheese flavor profile?
“We use a little bit of chipotle power, some granulated garlic and a tiny bit of salt,” he said. “It’s such a small amount, but it really adds to the umami.”
Mission accomplished! With the success of that product — which is available in the frozen food section of more than 12,000 grocery stores nationwide, as well as online — the mac-and-cheese portfolio has expanded over time.
There’s now a gluten-free version, as well as a variation made using smoked Flagship and a pepper-spiked preparation. Roasted potatoes, Street Corn and Mushroom Rice have also been given the mac-and-cheese treatment.
Wanna try to DIY? Beecher’s serves up its recipe online.
Beecher’s in Seattle and New York City’s Flatiron neighborhood occasionally serve a wildly popular … [+]
What’s next?
Dammeier is happiest when he’s got a full plate and an ambitious agenda. Expansions and acquisitions include the opening of a Beecher’s in New York City’s Flatiron neighborhood, a move that led to the development of Dutch Hollow Dulcet, an ultra-rich cheese made with milk from Jersey cows at Dutch Hollow Farm in the Hudson Valley.
The establishment of The Butcher’s Table tied into the company acquiring Mishima Reserve, which sources sustainably raised American Wagyu beef from a cooperative of farmers throughout the country.
On the supermarket friendly frozen food front, consumers can expect to see more options within the next year: various red sauce styles of lasagna, meatballs made with grass-fed beef as well as mac-and-cheese bite appetizers.