Searching For Greek Wine And Wellness At F Zeen Retreat On Kefalonia

While most Americans sun themselves in the Cyclades, in-the-know travelers head to the Ionian Islands in Western Greece. Likely the home of Homer’s hero Odysseus, the Ionians comprise seven principal islands and a smattering of smaller ones, including Corfu in the north near Albania, and Lefkada, Ithaca, Kefalonia, and Zakynthos, connected by a string of ferries, further south.

Each island has its own charms from sparkling beaches lapped by iridescent water to indigenous wine grapes and hyper-local food culture. Kefalonia is the largest Ionian Island, arguably offering the most to see for travelers willing to commit to at least a week’s time. Ancient olive groves, vineyards, and Mediterranean pine forest encircle the mountainous landscape, while charming villages like Fiskardo in the north, and Argostoli in the southwest offer boutiques, cafes, and restaurants in a waterfront setting.

Because of Kefalonia’s size, lodging matters. Choosing a property on a beach with great facilities, health and wellness programs, and thoughtful organic food and drink turns a good trip into a memorable experience you’ll want to repeat. That was the case for me after spending three days at F Zeen Retreat, a resort located on the island’s southwestern coast near the village of Lourdata.

For an American used to cruising down wide, paved highways in an SUV, the drive to the F Zeen requires a recalibration to what roads fellow drivers consider “tight” versus “roomy.” Fortunately, my husband handled the stick-shift fiat down steep narrow streets demanding hairpin turns into village traffic.

F Zeen hides in plain sight, combining organic materials and weathered stone to blend away into a 20-acre oasis on a hillside. If not for the gate marking the resort’s small dirt-packed parking light, you’d never know the adults-only hotel existed. However, once inside the property reveals itself. Tiers of discreet rooms and villas framed in wild sprays of fragrant flowers and lush blooming bushes tumble down the lower slope of Mount Aenos towards the turquoise bay of Lourdas Beach.

I loved this property for multiple reasons, starting with the accommodation. Room categories span all budgets, from classic garden view rooms or “retreats” to terraced penthouse suites, and 3-bedroom villas with private pools. If your budget only allows for a smaller room overlooking the gardens, you’ll still be ensconced in the quietude of nature. Rooms, which feel like mini-sanctuaries, combine natural fiber sheets, brushed wood surfaces, and hand-crafted finishes like hammered copper and hand-cast sink basins. Stones both in rooms and throughout the property evoke the finishes and foundations of a traditional village while offering tactile texture and visual contrast. (Check out this video tour of the property.)

While a terrific guest room will enhance any hotel stay, the property’s extensive grounds and activities calendar will inevitably draw you out—so don’t worry much about your room category. I’ve visited dozens of health and wellness-focused resorts around the world and F Zeen remains a standout for its superb calendar of activities, from fitness classes to yoga and meditation.

Given the plentitude of steps connecting pools, restaurants, and common spaces, you’ll jumpstart your heart rate through non-exercise activity thermogenesis, or NEAT. So, while the outdoor gym features aerobic equipment and trainers leading HIIT classes, I took advantage of the extensive menu of yoga classes. The list impressed me, including everything from aerial yoga to vinyasa and restorative classes. The knowledgeable instructors led practices on different decks, including one perched high on the mountain facing the ocean. The vigorous walk through pine trees ( more NEAT!), helped warm my muscles before class. The breathwork session held after calmed my system down.

Not only are classes free, but they also don’t require registration, so there’s no pressure to plan your day or even attend, lest risk missing out. (Visiting a wellness property which forces guests to organize leisure time around class time while also filling limited slots days before one arrives, is my bête noire.)

Beyond group classes, the resort offers a wealth of outdoor activities, from snorkeling and paddleboarding, to hiking with a guide up all 5300 feet of Mount Aenos. Since my visit last summer, the hotel has added three extra gym decks, including a beach gym, plus Pilates Reformer sessions. Staying active poses the least of your problems. Choosing what to eat and drink serves up the true conundrum.

The resort offers several dining concepts. A typical day might look like this: a healthy breakfast of ripe fruit, local honey, and creamy Greek yogurt beneath the bougainvillea at Gaia; a lunch of falafel and black garlic hummus meze followed by pork souvlaki poolside at Gaia; a dinner of fresh fish and organic vegetables drizzled with lemon and olive oil paired to a bottle of Kefalonian wine at Selini.

If, like me, one of your key motivations for traveling the world is to partake in regional cuisine, you’ll satisfy that craving at F Zeen. When traveling through Greece, I normally patronize a hotel restaurant one night, reserving the remaining lunches and dinners for nearby tavernas. The food at F Zeen was so good, we never left. The knowledgeable wine and beverage director prides himself on listing Kefalonia’s best bottles made from indigenous grapes like Robola, Mavrodaphne, and Muscat of Kefalonia. This ethos allows guests to continue scratching the itch of tasting the island’s bounty without driving (and drinking) at night on island roads. (Check out this list of wineries to visit during the day.)

After a few days pursuing mental and physical fitness, there’s only one item left on the F Zeen to-do list: experiencing a deep tissue or Ionian massage at Idor Spa. After all, it wouldn’t be a “health and wellness” holiday without one or two visits to the spa.

F Zeen Retreat, Lourdas Beach Road, Kefalonia, Livathos, 28083, Greece