KOL, London: Not just a restaurant, but a bold reinvention of a cuisine

No, it’s not a Kolkata-themed Bengali restaurant in the heart of London. Kol is a standout Mexican establishment, and Britain’s leading advocate for mezcal, the traditional agave drink that everyone’s toasting these days.Mexican chef Santiago Lastra launched Kol in 2020 to serve authentic Mexican food. It was no mean task, considering citrus and avocado do not grow in Britain. So, Lastra travelled across the country, researched and devised innovative replacements – like sea buckthorn in place of lime – giving his cuisine a British nuance. The only products the restaurant imports are true Mexican essentials: corn for tortillas, chocolate and native chillies.

Lastra’s career-defining moment came in 2016 when he set up Noma’s Mexico pop-up in Tulum, Mexico. On Kol’s ever- evolving tasting menu, Lastra’s signature langoustine taco has been the only mainstay since the restaurant’s launch. The taco arrives pre-assembled and ready to roll, with the crustacean head served separately, designed to be squeezed onto the dish for added umami depth.

Other seasonal highlights include tamal colado, served with pig’s trotter, radishes, kohlrabi and caviar. Kol isn’t just a restaurant; it’s a bold reinvention of Mexican cuisine.