Italy’s COVID Lockdown Empties Tourist Hotspots, Again

Italy’s spring lockdown, one of the longest and strictest in Europe, gifted extraordinary experiences and photos of the country’s iconic tourist attractions devoid of people. As Italy’s latest COVID rules see regional borders closing and international travel continues to be restricted, these tourist hotspots are once more emptying. The situation is bittersweet. Many businesses, particularly those dependent on tourism, wonder if they’ll manage to survive a second travel hiatus. But with a full lockdown not yet imposed, it’s a unique opportunity for residents to reclaim the city for themselves. 

Venice Falls Silent

Once poster-girl for overtourism, the canal city of Venice was suddenly the domain of locals for several months this spring. Even at the height of summer, continuing travel restrictions preventing tourism from countries like America and China meant the city was still a radically different place from previous years. Now, areas of the city previously lost to crushing crowds of tourists are clearing again. 

Roberto Ferronato, chef de rang at the historic Caffè Florian, has observed Venice’s most iconic spot, St Mark’s Square, throughout these months. As he waits at the cafè’s tables set out in the square, he has been witness to its extraordinary emptiness. “In the city, at this moment, there are very few tourists,” Ferronato confirms. 

For residents whose life in the city had been blighted by overtourism pre-COVID, the moment is to be savored. Where previously their sleep would be disturbed by late-night raucous travelers, the city now falls silent in the evening. The narrow alleys of the city once impassable thanks to large tour groups are now easily traversed. 

But with so many livelihoods dependent on tourism, the city is also suffering greatly. Caffè Florian, a Venetian institution that celebrated its 300th anniversary this year, has closed temporarily. Although coronavirus regulations permit bars and restaurants to remain open until 6pm in the Veneto region, Ferronato explains, “We tried to resist but, unfortunately, with the new legal provisions the company does not currently have the resources to continue.” 

Although the city desperately needed respite from the overwhelming tourist numbers, the contrast has been too stark. But Venice is used to hardship and overcoming adverse situations. “We will return more beautiful and stronger than before,” Ferronato says passionately. “Florian has survived for a long time, and will continue!”

Rome Alone

Italy’s capital is also unusually quiet. Rome-based writer Gillian McGuire says, “A few weeks ago I heard English, French and Dutch being spoken and the sound of suitcases below my window. Now my neighborhood next to the Forum and Colosseum falls silent when the sun sets.” The Forum and the Colosseum, along with the Trevi Fountain and the Pantheon, are some of Rome’s most visited attractions. They can now be enjoyed in relative solitude. 

In a city whose museums and attractions are normally packed with visitors, this was the ideal time for cultural forays before last week’s new decree forced them to close. “I went to as many museums as I could before they had to shut,” McGuire says. “I was alone in all but the Capitoline museums where there were maybe about 10 others.” 

But like in Venice, unprecedented museum visits don’t make up for the economic toll. “The businesses on my street are struggling and worried about another lockdown,” McGuire comments. As in Venice, bars and restaurants must close by 6pm in Rome, wiping out much of their revenue.

Florence For The Locals

Unlike Venice and Rome that lie in regions classed as “yellow” zones or the lowest risk, the region of Tuscany, home to Florence, became a “red” zone on Sunday. Under Italy’s three-tier system, this means bars and restaurants are completely closed, residents can only move around their town or city for essential reasons and cannot travel to other towns in the same region, and the regional border is closed.  

Florentines may get glances at their city’s elegant Renaissance streets and squares as they travel to work or go to the supermarket, but for the most part these iconic locations will be empty for the next couple of weeks.    

Residents are unhappy, however, with the status of their region as high risk. Before the latest restrictions came into force, bar and restaurant owners protested on the iconic Ponte Vecchio asking for greater economic support from the government. This complete closure of eateries signals yet more economic hardship to come.