Dior Reveals Its AW21 Show During Haute Couture Week, Not Digitally But Physically

Seventy-four looks in the Dior autumn-winter 2021-22 collection as fashion sighed, easing back into physical shows. The renowned Parisian house opened haute couture week from the city of lights at Musée Rodin in the 7^th arrondissement as creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri and her design team aimed to reclaim the values of haute couture after a year plus period of restrictions leaving couture to only be attainable through film.

Connoisseurs of the house, American actresses Jessica Chastain and Jennifer Lawrence sat front row at the show, along with British model Cara Delevingne and British actress Florence Pugh- and Italian actress Monica Bellucci. Every seat was taken as all of Paris and fashion have been waiting for months to sit and see the latest fashion collections in person, as no one was going to forfeit their invitation.

Chiuri has taken Dior’s signature style and expanded upon the house’s iconic looks of skirt suits, blazers, and eveningwear. Standing out was the use of autumn textiles giving the Dior style attitude to classic looks. According to notes from the House, “it is through textile research and a series of pieces, featuring an assortment of checks, tweeds, textures and different dimensions in black and white that showcase innovative warp and weft constructions.”

With a strong use of embroidery in the collection it’s not simply a collection but rather a performance shifting attention to materiality. Chiuri has reinterpreted embroidery, not simply as decoration but also as an element for the senses of sight and touch.

The bar suit with a long, pleated wraparound skirt in gray flannel over silk organza blouse is a quintessential Dior looks. The collection is a mix between daywear and evening wear. And, the long-pleated dress with a double box pleat effect in mustard silk gazar with chain shoulder straps in gazar is a look an enchanted evening.

Turing to curator and artist Clare Hunter’s book Threads of Life, published in 2019, Chiuri drew inspiration for the myriad of looks. The book has impacted the critical awareness of the value of embroidery and weaving, skills and crafts that the chief designer values.

The house also notes: “the work Chambre de Soie, created by French artist Eva Jospin provides a backdrop for the show with lifesize embroideries displayed on the walls recalling the Indian-inspired Salle aux Broderies in the Colonna Palace in Rome.” With hand-woven chains, the décor detail on the lifesize display can be seen in the dresses from the collection with pleats, trains, and hand-woven chains. Also, the color palette in the collection are colors close to the namesake founder and first designer Christian Dior with hints of powder blues and nudes.

“Couture stirs unsuspected desires and reveals the existence of what we did not know. Isn’t that the role of the avant-garde?,” questions the house? As the meaning of faith to believe in what you cannot see, Chiuri has strived to make visible what one cannot see in the collection.

Watch Dior’s AW21 Haute Couture Collection-