The Evolution Of De Beers Alchemist Of Light Collection

De Beers was one of the companies to reveal its new High Jewelry Collection during the Paris Couture Shows, first in January and then in July 2022. They showed two collections in January and five more in July, alongside renowned companies such as Cartier, Chaumet, Boucheron, Chanel High Jewelry and more.

The collection entitled Alchemist of Light plays on just that –the different ways that light reflects, refracts, radiates and creates textural interest when it bounces off diamonds and precious metals. It reveals how light creates different moods from sunrise to dusk, from the magic of the evening sky to the geometry of optical illusions. There are 45 designs in the collection, which feature different themes; each is a masterpiece of form and function, technology and the search for sustainable and most beautiful diamonds.

Céline Assimon, CEO of De Beers Jewellers explains, “This collection is imbued with a sublime fusion of art and science, precision and imagination, tradition and modernity. We understand and care passionately that our clients not only express their individuality through these wearable works of art but also bring another layer to the creative story. In this respect, our clients are true alchemists of light.”

Here are some pieces from a few of the themes in the collection shown during the 2022 July Couture Week as described by Assimon:

“The design cue for our Ascending Shadows collection is a creative interpretation of how stepped diamond surfaces dramatically play with light and shade. Boundary-pushing, this group contains seven pieces, architectural in shape and striking in shade. The innovative use of pink, blue and green anodized titanium and aluminum creates surfaces on which rare pink and grey diamonds, as well as green and browny pink roughs are highlighted. I am particularly obsessed by the use of new materials, vivid colors and our jewelers’ innovative techniques to craft these unique pieces.”

The Midnight Aura group comprises five one-of-a-kind pieces, all inspired by green clouds of stardust in the dark skies. Here, we utilized black rhodium, which offers the perfect backdrop to a constellation of white round brilliant and princess-cut diamonds. Some of these diamonds are innovatively set within cabochon-cut green African chrysoprase. The setting of which requires incredible skill and precision.”

She continues, “ The necklace in this collection is precisely and delicately articulated that it feels like fabric. It is set with 549 bezel-set white round brilliant and princess-cut diamonds and forms a flexible mesh. This necklace features an extraordinary 20.57-carat pear-shaped white diamond from De Beers Natural Works of Art collection. Versatility is essential when we design important pieces and this one can be worn three different ways: as a mesh collar with or without the diamond line or as a classic diamond line.”

Frozen Capture evokes ice and diamonds, which share purity and beauty. This collection is inspired by the play of light through frozen rivers. Our six designs in this group sparkle with artistic brilliance and diamond expertise. In a first for De Beers, this set features rock crystal from Brazil. The use of which forms an intrinsic part of the layering aesthetic. It transitions into fringes of white diamonds, depicting how ice gains greater light intensity as it gradually thaws to become more transparent at its edges. Three pieces feature exceptional diamonds discovered by De Beers in Botswana and which form part of our Natural Works of Art collection.”

She adds, “My favorite piece is the Frozen Capture ear cuff as you see the diamonds embedded in rock crystal, fringed with delicately dripping marquise-shape diamonds. It is stunning and looks like you are wearing a piece of ice.

Dusk Reflection is inspired by a sunset radiating a soft glow over the horizon. We created sensual and feminine pieces with our iconic Enchanted Lotus motif at the center. The choker is amazingly flexible and is imbued with a tactile quality. An assortment of lotus motifs suspend an exquisite 1.13-carat, fancy intense pink radiant-cut diamond from De Beers Natural Works of Art collection. The diamond can be detached and worn as a pendant on a bespoke chain necklace. The choker transforms into a pair of bold cuffs which are the perfect accessory from day to evening. One of the keys to this collection is versatility.”

Assimon concludes, “We wanted to offer pieces that can be worn in multiple ways suiting different occasions and moods – and always bringing joy and enhancing personal style.”