Hannah Coffin Of Fashion Brand Needle & Thread

For those who love the dreamiest of dresses, bring forth Needle & Thread.

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Established in 2013 by Hannah Coffin, this London-based designer has built up a reputation for offering show stopping occasionwear, and it’s easy to see why. Trading in ethereal, swoosh-worthy ready-to-wear, the Needle & Thread collection is anchored in gorgeous dresses with lengths varying from flirtatious mini, to ballerina (midi) and ankles skimming gowns, and these sit alongside voluminous skirts, tops, jackets, and knitwear.

And what do they all these pieces have in common? Well, expect romance in abundance as there’s one stylish amalgamation of ruffles, floral prints, iridescent threads, tulle, embroidery, and of course, a special occasion number wouldn’t be complete without sequin embellishments. Whatever the occasion Hannah has a look for you.

Hannah Coffin, Founder and CEO of Needle & Thread discusses what luxury means to her, and how she sees her brand evolving.

Felicity Carter: What is your first memory of fashion?

Hannah Coffin: My early memories around clothing and fashion are really to do with crafting. I grew up in rural Gloucestershire, as part of a large, creative family. It was my grandmother who introduced me to textiles, and from as young as five or six, I was taught the basic principles of knitting and sewing. She gave me my first pedal-operated Singer sewing machine when I was around eleven, and I began pattern cutting and making clothes. So, my awareness of fashion was a pretty organic process. Later, of course, magazines, films, nature and photography all played their part in feeding my imagination. I also loved visiting museums with my grandmother; exhibitions at the V&A and National Portrait Gallery were always a highlight.

FC: Tell us about how you made your way into the industry…

HC: I had a real passion for sewing including textiles and embellishment, and I knew from a very young age that I would one day like to create my own fashion brand. I eventually graduated to an electric sewing machine in my teens so I spent a large amount of my adolescence making clothes for myself, my sister and friends. A fashion and textiles degree at London’s Ravensbourne University honed those skills – there I learnt how to pattern cut, machine garments, engrave print screens and mix colours. Shortly after leaving university, I took on my first industry job as a womenswear designer, progressing to Design Director over the next decade. That commercial experience gave me the confidence to set up my own label in 2013.

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FC: How would you sum up the aesthetic of the label?

HC: I think my early love of making remains very evident in our aesthetic, which celebrates craft, embellishment and femininity through contemporary pieces that feel special to wear. It’s an ethos that’s captured in the brand’s name and carried through to every piece, from intricate sequined gowns to the hand-crocheted flowers on a knitted cardigan or the lace trim of an everyday tee-shirt. Before I set up Needle & Thread, I found it hard to find those kind of pieces: I wanted to wear clothes that felt romantic, feminine and timeless and I knew that if I felt that way, there must be other women out there feeling the same.

From the outset, our pieces were defined by a soft, largely pastel colour palette and a passion for surface decoration. The English countryside, vintage textiles, delicate florals, antique prints and even heritage ceramics all inform our designs. Ultimately, it’s about creating pieces that make women feel beautiful.

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FC: Which is the first piece you designed and what do you love about it the most?

HC: Let’s just say, my first garments were a case of trial and error! In the very early years, before formal training, I made all manner of clothes that thankfully haven’t survived! By the time I was studying at university, I was beginning to produce pieces that carried a hint of what was to come – soft colours, flattering shapes and a generous use of lace. On my wedding day earlier this year, I wore our Lunette Blossom Ankle Gown, which is a more contemporary, slightly shorter style, finished with hand-applied sequins. That dress was very meaningful to me because it reflected my creative journey.

FC: What is luxury to you?

HC: I think our definition of luxury evolves over time, especially since the recent pandemic, many of us have re-evaluated our priorities. For me, it’s about creating truly enriching experiences, which is one of the reasons that I founded Needle & Thread, because beautiful clothes make those special moments more memorable. I try to infuse all of our designs with that essence. I think, right now, there’s a shift in our general appreciation of what luxury is – it can be affordable and accessible, which has always been important to me

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FC: Who is your customer?

HC: I have never designed with one woman in mind; instead I like to create standout pieces for real women everywhere. We have worldwide customers of all ages from the UK, Europe, the US, the Middle East and many more. We are very mindful of embracing different body shapes; we cater to many sizes, from 4-20 – and later in ‘21, we are launching a size 22. Of course, it’s exciting to see iconic women such as The Duchess of Cambridge, Sarah Jessica Parker, Nicole Kidman and Julia Roberts wearing our designs, but the brand has always been about creating something unique for every woman to wear.

FC: What are the cornerstones of your company?

HC: From the outset, I wanted to make women feel beautiful. It was always important to me to make affordable pieces that comfortably bridged the gap between high-street and luxury. We’ve found a way to do that by partnering closely with our team in India. Being hands-on is still so important to me, and the craftsmanship involved in producing our pieces remains fundamental.

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FC: Which collection are you currently designing, and what is on your current mood board?

HC: Inspiration can come from the unlikeliest places. I find that ideas surface in my downtime – origami, calligraphy and reading are my meditation, and it’s these hobbies that feed my imagination. For example, our SS22 collection is inspired by my love of childhood classics, especially Frances Hodgson-Burnett’s The Secret Garden. The 1990s film version has some beautiful lighting which inspired this season’s sunlit colour palette and its Edwardian-style lace trimmings. I still love making time to rummage through Portobello market, browse vintage print archives and visit museums with my design team.

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FC: How would you like your brand to further evolve?

HC: It’s all about diversifying our offering, and that comes from paying attention to the women who wear our designs. It was requests from brides wanting our most popular gowns in white for example, that prompted me to launch our bridal range. In the same way, the pandemic has initiated a more relaxed way of dressing, so we are launching our first ever loungewear collection later this year. We are also offering more choice in our dress collection, with a broader range of necklines and lengths for international appeal, as well as a range of knitwear, tops and day dresses.

Sustainability is something we’re passionate about. We’ve invested in recycled fabrics and sequins and we recently launched our first responsibly sourced range, together with Jasmine Hemsley. Our aim is that by 2022, 50-75% of the entire collection will be made from recycled materials. A pretty big challenge, but one I’m excited to take on. And of course, we’ll continue to dress women of all shapes and sizes. It’s great to be leading a change in this area and hopefully starting a conversation about what looking – and feeling – beautiful really means.

See more from the brand on needleandthread.com.